The drive to Knoxville Tennessee couldn't have been much easier. At a little under 4 hours, we enjoyed the fog banks and very little traffic on an early Saturday morning. Once you pass Knoxville, you are ready to run the gauntlet of Sevierville, Pigeon Forge and Gatlinburg before arriving at the park.
I was struck dumb when I got to Sevierville, and it got worse as we drove through Pigeon Forge and on into Gatlingburg. I wasn't prepared for the sensory overload. Sevierville is essentially an endless outlet mall, thankfully, I only had to drive through it once. Pigeon Forge is a collection of hotels interspersed with a variety of restaurants and state fair-like attractions, Dollywood not included. Not my cup of tea as a destination, but since it is convenient to the park and very reasonable in the off-season ($24.95 a night!) this was where we had room. In addtition, our hotel was directly accross the street from the Wilderness Wildlife Week convention. More on the convention in a moment.
What can one say about Gatlinburg? My initial reaction was one of distaste. After 4 days of driving through and around it and eating at several locations in the city, I can say it isn't really all that bad. It's pedestrian friendly, and scattered throughout are lovely rivers and streams. I would imagine that staying in a cbin or chalet in the hills over Gatlinburg would beat the snot out of staying in the city, but again, that would be a personal preference. The city's saving grace of course is, once you leave it heading East, you're almost immediately in Great Smoky Mountains National Park.
First of all, it's big. I mean, REALLY big. And not just tall. I've been to the Appalachian mountains in the Eastern parts of Kentucky, so I know what mountains look like. The Appalachian Trail goes pretty much right through the center of the park's 800 square miles. The length of the AT in the park is 70 miles. That's a walk from Louisville to Lexington. I'm going to try and make that trek soon (the Smoky Mountains AT that is).
In the 4 short days I was there, I visited and hiked several areas in the park. On Saturday, we drove to Newfound Gap and got to walk a little bit of the AT and enjoy the views. Sunday, we hiked the Little River trail in the Elkmont section of the park (some great looking trout water here) to the Cucumber Gap trail (about 5 miles). It was warm enough to wear shorts, but near the end of the hike, it started to sleet ice pellets. Once we came down in elevation a little, the precipitation disappeared. On Monday, we hiked with approximately 30 other folks on a guided Wilderness Wildlife Week hike to the Crosby section of the park and the Lower Mt. Camerer trail (7 miles). This hike was especialy nice since the sky was clear, but the ground had a light frosting of snow and ice. The Sutton Ridge Overlook (about halfway along the Lower Mt. Camerer trail) provided some great views of snow covered hollows and peaks at the higher elevations. Monday night, we drove up Newfound Gap road for a Wilderness Wildlife Week Owl Prowl, where you hike in the dark to see if your guide can call in some native owls. That was very cold and very cool, even though on this night, we didn't spot any owls. Tuesday, we checked out of our hotel and took a nice long drive past Laurel Falls, the Townsend exit to one of the most popular places in the park, Cades Cove. There were deer and wild turkey aplenty.
Even in Winter, the Smokies are still green with plentiful rhododendrons and water is abundant almost everywhere you turn. Cascades and falls appear out of nowhere along roadways and every conversion seems to have at least a stream trickling down the mountainside. One of the benfits of Winter hiking is that there are very few peopl in the park. The 11 mile loop drive of Cades Cove is bumper to bumper in the Spring, Summer and Fall but you can set your own pace in the Winter. And you'll find yourself almost completely alone on any trail you choose.
It's a very spiritual place. If the Smokies don't make you feel a little spiritual, check your pulse.
I almost forgot: the Wilderness Wildlife Week convention. It is completely free to participate in and it is brilliant. The city of Pigeon Forge sponsors the event and provides transportation to and from about 10 different hikes each day varying from easy to strenuous. While hikes go on in the park during the day, the convention center fills the day with information sessions on topics ranging from photography, to fishing, to Appalachian folk music and history. As long a you don't mind a little cold weather, this has to be one of the greatest local events from around the country.
Check out more about the Wilderness Wildlife Week Here